Applying ointment to skis for classic skiing. Use of holding ointments and SWIX klisters

Skiing is a rewarding and fun activity for the whole family. But it’s not enough to just buy skis; they need proper care, including lubrication. Oiling plastic sports equipment is different from the same process with wood. This article is devoted to how to properly lubricate plastic skis.

Lubrication of skis “for sliding”

The technology for lubricating plastic skis varies depending on how you plan to ski. In order for the skis to glide, they are lubricated with hot paraffin, and to keep them on the snow - with a special ointment. for better glide?

How to lubricate plastic skis “on hold”

The technology for lubricating skis “on hold” differs from that described above. In order for the skis to have a tighter grip on the snow cover, they are lubricated as follows:

Ski waxes

You have already learned how to properly lubricate plastic skis, but what kind of ointment should you use for this? Ski treatment products come in regular, low-fluoride and high-fluoride. Regular ointment is suitable if it does not exceed 55% when skating. In other cases, it is better to use products containing fluoride in one quantity or another. Such ointments are more expensive, but skis glide much better after applying them. Be aware that if the temperature of the iron exceeds the expected limit, fluoride will begin to be released from the ointment. Lubricate the equipment in a respirator or in a well-ventilated area.

If you are wondering “how to lubricate plastic skis,” then go straight to a sports equipment store, where sales consultants will select the ointment that suits you.

Even the highest quality ointment will not keep your skis in order if you do not familiarize yourself with the basic rules of lubrication:

Apply lubricant only at room temperature. Skis must be clean and dry.
If you use a solid ointment, always apply it in several layers. Moreover, each layer must be ground separately, and the skis must be cooled after the procedure. If the temperature outside the window is down to -15° C, then 15 minutes will be enough for cooling, but if it’s frosty outside, cool the skis longer.
How to properly lubricate plastic skis? For classic skiing, apply ointment or paraffin to the front and back of the skis, treat the surface in the middle with a compound for gripping on snow.

Do you want to know if you have lubricated your equipment correctly? Go on a ski trip of at least a couple of kilometers. How to lubricate plastic skis in case of failure? If your skis roll too poorly, use a harder wax. If they are too slippery, use a higher temperature ointment.

Secrets of lubrication of skis

In order for skiing to bring you only joy, you must clearly know how to properly lubricate plastic skis. This business, like any other, has its own tricks and secrets.

Always check the weather forecast on the day of your ride. If the weather was sunny in the morning, and by lunchtime there is an increase in air humidity and fog, be sure to take an extra bottle of ski wax with you. This will allow you to adjust the lubrication on the spot. Don't know which ski wax to choose? Keep a special notebook and write down in it all the nuances of the “behavior” of skis after using this or that product. This will help you find the perfect ointment!

Be sure to store ski wax out of the reach of children and ensure that it does not get wet. Otherwise, the product will simply be spoiled. When outdoors, close the tube immediately after use.

Proper storage of plastic skis

Skis require careful cleaning and lubrication at least once a year. Of course, professional skiers and people who rent equipment at resorts do this much more often. As a rule, this is done after each ride. An ordinary person who prefers to take a leisurely ski trip on a day off does not need this.

You already understand how to properly lubricate plastic skis. But how to properly store them? Be sure to store them lubricated and tied in two places (at the heel and toe). Place the skis in a dry place with

When purchasing a new set of skis, you should think about buying high-quality ointment for the equipment. Regardless of whether amateur or professional sports, the ointment will be beneficial in both cases. Ski waxes increase performance properties and provide the necessary care for the working surface of skis.

How to choose ski wax

In many countries, including Russia, skiing has always been popular. Skiing and participation in cross-country skiing presupposes that the sports equipment is in good condition. For care and preparation skis, you need to purchase ski ointments that increase operational properties and extending the life of skis.

When choosing a ski wax, you need to decide what main function it will perform. Based on this, lubricants are distinguished:

slip;
holding.

Glide ointments are intended to speed up cross-country skis, and the grip ensures high-quality snow grip. When choosing ointment for skis, you should pay attention to its bottle, it should indicate temperature range for which it is intended. All ski lubricants differ in composition and consistency.

Manufacturers usually indicate the temperature range color packaging.

There are also universal lubricants that are suitable for any temperature conditions, mainly ski wax and aerosols. At temperatures above freezing and close to freezing, it is recommended to use ointments containing fluoride. They prevent snow sticking and collect less dirt from the ski track.

There are not many manufacturers of ski waxes; the most popular are “SWIX”, “Briko”, produced in Norway and Italy. Good ski lubricants are “Vauhti”, “Toko”, “Ski Go”, “Rex” and “Rode”.

Among the domestic ones, paraffins for skis produced by Luch and ski waxes from Visti are popular. There are other, lesser known brands.

"SWIX"

Leading manufacturer ski lubricants SWIX offers a wide range of products. The means are different high quality, have an appropriate price. Swix ski ointments include powders, emulsions, paraffins, aerosols, and liquids. All types of products are intended for a wide range of users, cover the entire temperature range and are suitable for any conditions.

"Briko"

Popular manufacturer ski lubricants, which are expensive. The entire product line undergoes thorough research. The compositions are selected as accurately as possible, so when testing, you should not mix them with each other. Depending on the humidity for which they are intended and the fluorine content, all Briko ski lubricants are divided into categories:

fluorine-free, humidity 30-90%;
average fluorine content, humidity 45-70%;
high fluorine content, humidity 70-90%;
100% fluorine content, humidity 30-70%;
fluoride powder 100%; humidity 70-100%.

"Wisty"

Domestic Visti ski wax has been known for a long time. The advantage of the composition is fairly good quality at a relatively low price. Visti ski waxes are presented in a wide range for any temperature and all types of snow. In Soviet times, ski ointment Marathon xxi was very popular as a gripping agent for wooden skis.

Ski wax rating 2018-2019

The main criteria for choosing a lubricant are air temperature and snow humidity. Based on these parameters, a rating of the most popular ski waxes of this season has been compiled.

Glide ointments

Swix F4 (blue packaging). Their main advantage is their low cost - 899 rubles, with high quality workmanship and versatility. They work effectively at any temperature, low humidity, and any type of snow, thanks to the fluorine content. Quick-release lubricant, manufactured in aerosol form– which is a definite plus for both beginners and professionals. The bottle is equipped with a fibertex applicator for application to a sliding surface. Economical consumption allows you to forget about buying a new one until next season. Abrasion resistant.
IROX Fluoro from TOKO- universal fluorinated paraffin in the form of an aerosol. The cost is within 1300 rubles. Despite the fact that the product is in an aerosol package, it contains solid fluoride paraffins. Thanks to this, it allows you to create the same stable layer as when using paraffins. Application requires an iron, an alternative way is rubbing with a polishing block, however, a slight loss of performance is possible. The disadvantage is the predisposition of any manufacturer's products to pure dry snow.
REX(blue paraffin). Most amateur athletes from Finland appreciate the quality of their country's products. The limitation in use is temperature from -1 to -10 ºС. In conjunction with low cost, from 390 to 690 rubles, these ski waxes may well become the basis for the season. In addition, the performance properties are on par with more expensive products.
UF WET LIQUID GLIDE from Vauhti- ultra-high fluorine paraffin. Covers a fairly wide temperature range from +10 to -6 ºC. His the price is quite high– 2600 rubles per bottle. That is, you will have to stock up on several bottles for the season, which will damage your wallet. In addition, its performance properties are most effective in dirty old snow. Based on the listed characteristics of the product, we can conclude that ski lubricant will become indispensable at the end of the season, but for fresh snow it’s worth choosing something else.
Nordway(ski paraffin set). Great option for the budget conscious amateur skiers. A place in the ranking was secured by a good idea, namely a set of three paraffin bars for three temperature ranges: from +3 to -3ºC, from -2 to -7ºC, from -6 to -12ºC, which can be purchased for the low cost of 300 rubles. However, the composition of the lubricant is not pleased with the paraffin content, it is only 50%, the remaining 50% is occupied by petroleum ceresin. Correspondingly, low abrasion resistance. The absence of fluorine content does not imply good gliding performance at high humidity.

Holding ointments

Swix, 0°C/-20°C. A universal ointment from a leading manufacturer of ski lubricants, designed for ski enthusiasts. Copes perfectly with its clutch functions, while does not prevent slipping. The aerosol bottle allows for quick application. The cost in the range of 800-1000 rubles is the average on the market. Designed for any temperature conditions, from this we can conclude that one bottle will be enough for the entire season.
Swix V60 Red Silver. Traditional "warm" holding ointment. Fully copes with its functions. The average cost is 500 rubles. Designed for use by professional athletes and amateurs. It is worth noting that Swix ski waxes, “V” series, are used at top-level competitions. The temperature range is narrow - for fresh snow from 0 to +3ºC, and for fine-grained snow from -1 to +1°C.
HOLMENKOL Grip Blue Special. Produced in Italy at the Rode factory, a famous manufacturer of ski lubricants. The quality is at the level, and the price range is from 700 to 800 rubles. Wide range of use from -1 to -6ºC.
REX 15 Blue. Designed for all types of snow, temperature range from -2 to -6ºС. Ski lubricants contain fluoride, therefore they are highly resistant to dirt and sticky snow. It is enough to apply a thin layer to fully perform the functions. For this reason, the product is very economical and justifies the cost of 600 rubles.
START FHF20. New series of ultra holding ointments. Solid lubricant high fluoride content. Designed for temperatures from 0 to - 6ºC. Maximum copes with the traction function in fresh snow and average humidity. The average cost is from 600 to 800 rubles.

How to apply ointment to skis

The pleasure of riding can be overshadowed by poorly selected lubricant, as well as incorrectly applied one. You can buy an excellent, expensive ski wax, but not achieve the expected effect, or, even worse, get the opposite effect. In this case, you need to know how to apply ointment to skis.

Slip ointment

Modern plastic skis glide well even without the use of accelerators. However, when you plan to participate in a competition, or want to improve your ski glide, good lubrication will only be beneficial.

If you use quick gliding ointments in the form of aerosols, then application will not be difficult. It is necessary to spray the product onto the surface of plastic skis, excluding the last area, and then wait for several minutes for complete absorption. Or rub the product with a cloth.

To apply paraffin to skis you will need a fixing machine and an iron. At room temperature, paraffin in the form of drops is applied to the sliding surface. Then it is leveled with an iron at a temperature of no more than 150 ºC. Finished skis must be cooled for 20-25 minutes. After riding, remove the grease with a scraper.

Holding ointment

For the season you will need:

a set of lubricants (2-3 pieces);
rubbing stopper;
scraper;
wash.

Holding ointments are applied under the ski block, starting from the heel to the toe of the boot. In order to provide reliable support for the leg when skating. Simply put, to prevent the ski from rolling backwards. After it is applied, it needs to be rubbed with a rubbing stopper. When the sliding surface becomes smooth and shiny, stop rubbing. When going for a ride, you need to take with you a lubricant that is “cooler” than applied, and “warmer”. After skiing, the product must be removed from the skis with a scraper, and the residue must be removed with a specially designed remover. If there is no remover, you can use a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline.

Liquid lubricants, their other name is klisters, are applied in greasy drops, after which they must be rubbed with a stopper. They are inconvenient to use because they stain clothes. After a walk you need to remove it.

Aerosol products are the easiest to use. Just spray them on the desired area and you can start riding right away.

Conclusion

The benefit of using ski lubricants is not only to improve their skiing performance, but also to preserve the sliding surface between seasons. An amateur skier just needs to purchase a set of universal “quick” ointment for gliding, grip lubrication and a scraper with wash.

For detailed information about preparing skis, watch the video.

Paraffins are the basis for caring for sliding surfaces. Most leading manufacturers have a line of paraffins that includes two or three types of ointment for different snow temperatures. In addition, paraffins may vary in the content of fluorine and other additives. Paraffins with a high fluorine content are more expensive, they are more “slippery”, but at the same time they are quickly wiped off the sliding surface. Additionally, all-weather ground waxes are produced - not particularly slippery, but cheap, they are mainly used to prepare skis for long-term storage and transportation. It is customary to make paraffins in different colors for different snow temperatures. Typically, yellow is used for warmer snow, red for colder snow, and blue for the coldest of waxes. Ground paraffin is usually white, like regular medical paraffin. Applying paraffin is a separate topic, and will be discussed below.

Pastes and aerosols

Fluoride pastes and aerosols are generally “all-weather.” The manufacturer claims that they glide well on snow of any temperature and humidity. Unfortunately, this is not always the case. Snow is a complex structure. There are combinations of its temperature and crystal size when no ointments help. But in most cases, applying fluoride paste to an insufficiently “slippery” ski helps to correct the situation to one degree or another. However, there are several limitations when using pastes. Firstly, to apply the paste, the sliding surface of the ski must first be waxed, otherwise the paste will be instantly erased. And secondly, the paste is wiped off quite quickly even from a waxed sliding surface. But since the paste is a cold-applied product, it can be renewed right on the slope without any problems. As a rule, the tube of paste is equipped with a sponge. Having evenly distributed the ointment over the sliding surface of the ski, you need to wait for it to dry (usually a few minutes, the exact time is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging), and then polish the surface.

Accelerators

Despite the fact that the name of this category of means for preparing a sliding surface is extremely “unscientific,” accelerators are a rather interesting thing, although useless for the average user. These very “slippery” things are available in the form of solid briquettes (tablets) and in the form of powders. Accelerators, as a rule, contain fluorine compounds and graphite, which have an antistatic effect. Why are they useless for the average skier? The fact is that you can feel the presence of an accelerator only on a well-prepared track, while mastering the technique with great precision, minimizing extraneous slipping and braking. In addition, accelerators are wiped off very quickly - they are often applied right before the start, on previously prepared skis. The sliding surface (necessarily treated with high-fluoride paraffin) is evenly rubbed with an accelerator briquette, then vigorously polished with a special block resembling a cork. The sliding surface of the ski is evenly sprinkled with a powder accelerator, then burned with an iron, and then polished.

Cleaning the sliding surface.

Cleaning can be done in two ways - using a special liquid remover or using ground (low fluoride) paraffin. With the wash, everything is simple - you need to wet a non-woven rag with liquid, and then thoroughly wipe the sliding surface with it. Hot cleaning is a little trickier. Paraffin is applied to the ski, and when it cools, it is scraped off with a plastic scraper. You will see that the paraffin you scrape off is saturated with dirt. After scraping, thoroughly treat the sliding surface with a nylon or bronze brush. Repeat the procedure if necessary. And then, for greater effect, you can wipe the ski with wash. Do not use solvents to remove contaminants from the sliding surface, as they dry it out.

Ski slip ointments.

Sliding lubricants come in different types. Paraffins are most often used, and in professional sports they also use accelerators (powders or compressed), emulsions, pastes, etc. Such lubricants are quite expensive, but are consumed quite quickly. Therefore, if you are not going to race professionally, then do not buy expensive imported lubricants. In most cases, domestic ones are no worse, and often better (except that some go faster than imported ones). The shelf life of paraffins is practically unlimited. But there is no point in taking a lot. And many different brands and types are also not needed - the problem of choice inevitably arises - which is better for today's weather... In professional lubricants, this is solved by rolling out paraffins, but those who like to torment themselves with a choice have no need.

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then it is better for you to buy fluorinated paraffins.

For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%.

If the humidity is generally below 50%, then you will be fine with fluoride-free paraffins.

Among the inexpensive domestic ones, we can mention Uktus, Luch, VISTI, MVIS, FESTA paraffins. For Moscow, you can take the MVIS Marathon kit - it will suit you just fine. (These lubricants are rolled out in the Moscow region, and they work well there). It is inexpensive (almost 50-60 rubles), and works well in most cases. This is a set of light fluoride paraffins (with a small fluorine content) for three temperature ranges. It’s also worth taking tablets - the MVIS accelerator. They have No. 238 for sunny weather for temperatures -9+5, lasts up to 100 km. It is not often sunny weather in which it is really good, but it will also go in cloudy weather, although worse. In my opinion, its main advantage for an amateur is the ease of application and durability of the lubricant. Once you apply it cold, you can ride for a month. It costs about 350 rubles, but is spent very economically - it will last for many years.

For humid climates, fluoridated gels, pastes, sprays or emulsions are good. Apply to the sliding surface using a cotton swab or spray, dry or heat with a hairdryer, then polish. Fast and convenient. Disadvantages: a little expensive, quickly consumed, lasts up to 10-15 km.

Ski grip ointments (for classics)

Holding ointments come in solid (in jars) and liquid (in tubes). The holding ointment must satisfy two requirements. First, the ointment should allow you to push. When pushing under the block, additional pressure is created on the snow, and snow crystals enter the layer of holding ointment, the ski “sticks” to the snow, which allows you to push. After the push, the crystals should come out of the ointment, allowing the ski to glide. When a skier glides on one ski, pressure under the block is also present, but the ointment should allow him to glide on one ski and “brake” only at the moment of push. Therefore, selecting the optimal holding ointment that provides the best combination of grip and glide is not an easy task in professional sports. Alternating layers of different ointments, applying them in a checkerboard pattern and other techniques are used.

Amateurs can smear themselves easier. In order not to fool your head, I will give the simplest rule: for most sub-zero weather conditions and inexpensive holding ointments (Uktus, MVIS, VISTI, inexpensive (fluorine-free) imported SWIX, START, RODE, etc.) you need to put ointment, the lower limit of the temperature range of which is 3-4 degrees higher than the current temperature. For example, if it is now -5, then put the ointment -1+1 or -2-0. Since the condition of the snow, and therefore its retention, depends not only on temperature, but also on air humidity, wind, old or new snow, and even the region, always take with you a plastic rub (the so-called “cork”) and a warmer ointment and colder than the one smeared at home. If you don’t get into the ointment, then if it slows down too much, put a colder one on top, if it doesn’t hold well, put a warmer one. (To improve grip, you can also lengthen the lubrication zone of the block forward to the tip of the ski.) It takes a couple of minutes to get smeared, and you will enjoy skiing for the rest of the time. Since snow is different everywhere, for a specific region this rule can be adjusted in terms of the value of the shift in the temperature of the ointment relative to the air temperature. Don't be afraid to experiment and you'll quickly discover what works best for you.

For an amateur, 3-4 jars of ointment will be enough, covering the temperature range from +3 to -15 degrees. If you smear yourself at home, then before applying a new holding ointment, it is advisable to remove the remnants of the old ointment with a plastic scraper. It is better to apply the ointment in 2-3 thin layers, rubbing each layer with a cork.

At sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

Podlip. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter “sticking” - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.

Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25) the ointment may begin to “ice up” - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a shock, begin to break off, leaving the ends in the ointment, and an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. This can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving home, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Allow the skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.

The condition of the snow in and outside the ski track can be different, so the ointment that allowed you to roll normally in the ski track can greatly slow you down when exiting it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in the forest.

To extend the life of plastic skis, they need to be lubricated regularly. Many people prefer to make do with improvised materials: beeswax, lard. But these means can only cause irreparable harm to the material. The plastic will gradually begin to swell and the snow will begin to stick. Modern manufacturers offer special ointments that allow you to simultaneously improve two important qualities of the material: gliding and grip, which is important for plastic skiing.

Hard or semi-solid, available in jars, bars, and tubes, will help improve gliding.

The packaging must be marked and indicate the temperature optimal for using the ointment. The most popular manufacturers of lubricants for plastic skis are Swix and Atomic. These companies are engaged in the development and production of lubricants containing: late blight, tree resin.

Which ointment is better?

The ointment is necessary to hold the ski while pushing with your foot. When choosing a product, it is important to consider the outside temperature that corresponds to the label. If the temperature is -15 degrees, then the markings should be identical.

Ski lovers just need to buy: a set of ointments for plastic skis, a scraper (plastic, metal) to remove the old layer of ointment and apply a new one.

They need regular lubrication before riding. Plastic is a material that is best treated with two compounds at once:

paraffin for gliding;
grip ointment.

Gliding ointment is also indispensable for classic and cross-country skiing. The main characteristics required for ointments when choosing:

The temperature must match the outside temperature. For example, the light green color of the ointment marking is suitable for use at t -20 degrees, red (liquid) at t - +4 degrees.
Selection of composition for outdoor temperatures with the possibility of easy application in a thin layer (preferably 2 layers), rubbing with grout.
Keeping the ointment on the bottom of the ski track to cover distances of up to 20-30 km.
Humidity of the composition.

There are ointments of different consistency on sale: liquid, hard, soft. Solid formulations have the longest effect, but for application you need a special iron, which allows you to level and dry the ointment in order to maintain its effect for 10-15 km.

In addition to sliding, it is important to provide the ski with the ability to grip or hold when pushing.

Ointments-paraffins for gliding

Paraffins are necessary when lubricating plastic skis for classic and skating skis. And, namely the processing of the sidewalls and edging edges in order to increase sliding properties.

Paraffins (like ointments) are selected taking into account the outside air temperature. The highest quality types of paraffin are produced by the following companies:

Wisty;
Swix;
Brik.

Purple marking color is used at t - 0 -2. Light green - -5-12. Black - -15-30g. Dark green - -10-25g. Blue -2-8 degrees.

Paraffin found in decorative (medical) candles is quite suitable for lubricating skis.

Traditionally, paraffins for processing are divided into 3 categories:

for cold skiing at snow temperature -12;
for riding at t -2-12;
for riding at temperatures above -2 degrees.

To ensure optimal gliding at higher temperatures, it is better to use products with fluoride.

Good gliding on any snow is ensured by low fluoride (universal) lubricant, with the possibility of use over a wide temperature range from 0 to -30.

Lubricant for plastic skis

Not everyone knows whether plastic skis need to be lubricated immediately after purchase. Plastic is a good sliding material and there is no need to lubricate newly purchased skis. They will glide well anyway, but the plastic is not resistant to cracks, into which snow and ice quickly begin to fall, worsening the sliding properties.

Professional skiers use paraffin in aerosols, which is easy to apply. Before lubricating, the lower part of the ski track must be cleaned of dust (dirt) and dried. Otherwise, the applied paraffin will form an uneven layer.

Before application, paraffin must be warmed up so that it can better penetrate the plastic pores, fill voids, and level the base for sliding.

Selection of ski wax and wax for classic skiing

Ointments and paraffins designed to prevent skis from kicking back (accelerating gliding) have different prices.

Cheap options don't mean they're bad. When choosing a product, you need to take into account the condition of the snow, temperature and humidity outside:

ski wax - universal, designed for use over a wide range of temperatures;
solid ointment - used only for negative temperatures;
semi-solid - for thaw;
liquid ointment (gel) - at 0 and above.

A thin layer of ointment should be applied to the sliding base under the deflection (ski block). The best options for sliding are Swix and Briko. In second place are Toko, Ski Go, Rex, Visti, Marathon-XXI, Temp.

The main substance in paraffins is fluorine. Depending on its quantity, ointments are divided into low-fluoride and high-fluoride.

Expensive ointments and paraffins are intended exclusively for spring snow.

Paraffins with graphite or iron oxide will help relieve static tension.

Preparing plastic skis for the run

The process of treating skis with ointments (paraffin) is quite complex. The work takes at least 1 hour. Procedure:

sand the pads with sandpaper;
apply in 2 layers, go over the base with a heated iron;
cool and grind.

Ski Preparation Tools

To prepare your skis for a run at home, you will need:

iron (ski);
scraper (metal, plastic) to collect excess paraffin;
nylon brush for removing dust;
paper No. 100 for sanding the pads.

Do not use a household iron, as this may damage the plastic and ignite the paraffin.

How to smear correctly: a simple way

How to lubricate plastic skis:

Clean the skis from the old layer of paraffin. To do this, you can use a plastic scraper or a nylon brush.
Apply a thin layer of paraffin evenly.
Rub the surface with cork grout in both directions so that the heat generated from friction warms up the paraffin.
Wait a bit for the first layer to set.
Re-lubricate;
Polish the surface of the ski track with a nylon brush and treat the ends with paraffin.

When, you need to heat the paraffin bundle to the temperature indicated on the packaging (instructions) by applying the block to the iron. Apply the iron to the heel of the ski track and rub it over the entire surface until the paraffin completely melts. When the layer hardens, polish the product.

It is better to treat skis before storing them at room temperature. If a skating method of movement is assumed, then the sliding surface of the skis is treated with paraffin.

First, a few words for those completely ignorant of ski lubrication. There are two main types of lubricants: sliding lubricants and holding lubricants. For a classic ride, the nose and heel of the ski are lubricated sliding lubricants, usually with paraffins, and the central part of the ski (block) lubricated with holding ointment so that there is no recoil. The length of the last is approximately 50 cm from the heel of the boot, placed in the mount, forward to the toe of the ski. For beginners, you can lengthen the last by another 10-15 cm to the tip of the ski. (I have heard how people were advised to smear the back (!!!) of their skis to avoid recoil.)

Skating skis are lubricated along their entire length with glide lubricants.

The choice and purchase of lubricants and lubrication tools depends on how you intend to ride. If the main goal is hiking on weekends, then the arsenal of tools and, most importantly, the time spent preparing skis is greatly reduced. If you are going to race, then you will have to invest money and precious time.

If you have read materials from Swix or other companies on ski preparation, you can estimate how much time it will take minimum professional preparation of one pair: cleaning with soft paraffin (application, removal with a plastic scraper, brushing), then applying 1-2 layers of weathering paraffin (application, cooling the ski to room temperature for at least 10 minutes), removing with a plastic scraper, brushing, polishing) . That is, at least half an hour you will be fiddling with one pair. Plus additional “pleasures” - the smell (though not strong), scraping off paraffin on the floor. If you have carpets on the floor, that's the end of the carpets. Once a friend and I were preparing skis at his house, we rolled up the rug, then, of course, we put everything away, but some remnants of paraffin apparently remained on the floor, and the rug began to slide wildly... I remember the kind words of his wife... In short, we need space where to turn around and not disturb anyone for at least 30-40 minutes, otherwise the paraffin residues will be spread throughout the apartment, especially in winter, when due to dryness and static electricity these residues tend to stick to everything. It happens that while you are busy with the preparation, your family loses all desire to ride. This is only for diehard fanatic skiers. Fortunately, there are alternative options that are cheap and have good results; they will be written about in the following sections.

In order to have an idea about the process of professional ski preparation, read A. Grushin’s article “How to prepare skis?” from the magazine "Ski Racing" No. 5. Or pick up the SWIX Nordic ski preparation brochure from the Fisher store.

Ski slip ointments

If the climate in the area where you live is humid, then it is better for you to buy fluorinated paraffins. For example, for Moscow, where air humidity in winter is most often above 50%. If the humidity is generally below 50%, then you will be fine with fluoride-free paraffins.

Ski holding ointments

Liquid ointments are more often called klisters. The klister is applied in a thin strip on both sides of the groove and leveled with a plastic scraper (this is difficult to do in the cold, better at home).

A klister may be needed for above-zero temperatures. But he gets very dirty. Before you put your skis in the case when you go skiing, wrap them in plastic so as not to damage the case. In addition, after skiing, the klister thaws and if the skis are standing vertically, then it begins to slowly flow down them. So after riding, it is better to immediately remove the klister using a remover (gasoline, or even a scraper and a dry cloth).

At sub-zero temperatures, solid ointments usually work well. But under certain weather conditions, you may encounter some problems:

· Podlip. At transition temperatures (about 0 degrees) and with fresh, especially falling, snow, you may encounter “sticking” - the snow will stick to the ointment and turn into a thick snowball under the block.

· Icing (freezing) of the ointment. At negative temperatures (more often at transitional -2 -0, but it also happens at -25) the ointment may begin to “ice up” - snow crystals, instead of completely leaving the ointment layer after a shock, begin to break off, leaving the ends in the ointment, and an ice crust appears on its surface. More often this is due to the fact that the ointment is softer (warmer) than necessary. This can also happen if you start skiing immediately after leaving home, when the skis are even warmer than the surrounding air. If the air temperature is below 0 degrees, but the snowflakes on the ski turn into water, it’s too early to ski. In addition, the ointment that has not cooled down can quickly disappear. Allow the skis (and wax) to cool to ambient temperature for 10-15 minutes.

· The condition of the snow in and outside the ski track can be different, so the ointment that allowed you to roll normally in the ski track can greatly slow you down when exiting it. You can also feel the difference in grip and glide when riding in sunny areas and in the shade, such as in the forest.

Necessary tools for preparing skis and their substitutes

Now about the necessary set of tools. If you look at the SWIX (or other company) manual for preparing skis, you get the impression that you need to additionally purchase a whole suitcase of all sorts of tools and materials for the skis. This is really necessary for professional ski training. But an amateur can get by with a much more modest set of tools.

If you take skis with a racing base (as the sliding surface is sometimes called), which is made of high-molecular sintered plastic, then the main tool is a ski iron, the rest can be made from improvised means. The fact is that a household iron has a very large hysteresis loop at the thermostat - the paraffin either smokes or barely melts. And at high temperatures, you automatically burn out the base (sliding surface), that is, you melt the pores, and the paraffin stops being absorbed into the base. And there’s no point in buying expensive skis (see Steve Poulin’s article “Use your iron correctly”). A good ski iron can be bought for 60-70 dollars.

New skis, regardless of whether you then use hot wax application or not, are still better to treat them the first time using an iron. In extreme cases, you can get by with a household iron (just don’t ruin a good one, take an old old one, without holes in the sole). In this case, be careful - have a large damp cloth on hand. If the paraffin suddenly begins to smoke, you can quickly lower the temperature of the soleplate of the iron by applying a rag to it and avoid burning the plastic. Primary treatment is performed with soft plus paraffin without fluorine, the melting point of which is 65-75 degrees, which also reduces the risk of burnout. Set the iron's thermostat to the minimum at which the paraffin melts normally, and begin to warm up the ski, moving the iron smoothly and without pressure from the toe to the heel of the ski. Make sure that it does not overheat and that there is a layer of paraffin between the iron and the ski at all times. It is better to use a household iron sideways, with the wide part of the sole. This option is suitable if you do not plan to constantly apply paraffins with an iron.

· Plastic scraper for removing excess paraffin. You can buy a branded one for 3-4 dollars, or you can replace it with a piece of a transparent school ruler, plexiglass, etc. 2-4 mm thick. In this case, you need to do the following: place fine sandpaper on a flat surface with the abrasive facing up, and straighten the sandpaper with a ruler so that the edges are sharp and straight, and there are no burrs or irregularities. In addition, grind the corners of the ruler into a semicircle on the sandpaper (the edges should remain sharp). Fit these angles to the groove of your skis so that you can then remove the wax from the groove. If you have several pairs of skis, then adjust the angles to suit different pairs. Look at branded scrapers in the store to get an idea of what you should end up with.

· A nylon brush is used to remove remaining paraffin after it has been removed with a scraper. If you will use hot paraffin application, then a fairly stiff brush is necessary. To do this, I had to use household brushes such as “iron” or a hand brush with stiff nylon bristles. “Sand is an unimportant substitute for oats,” but you can also remove excess paraffin.

· Coarse Fibertex, for example, SWIX T265, is needed when preparing new skis to remove lint from the plastic remaining after machine grinding of the sliding surface. (In fact, the residual lint will come off on its own after a few months of riding). Fibertex is not too expensive. Household abrasive plates that are approximately the same in appearance may not contain the same abrasive and only add lint. But there are also almost complete analogues. But to buy it or not to buy it... Probably not necessary.

· Fiberlene is a non-woven material used for final polishing of skis. In general, it is not needed; you can polish your skis with an old nylon stocking. Or a piece of felt. Finally, an old woolen sock.

· SWIX sandpaper No. 100 is used for sanding classic ski lasts so that the wax adheres better. Not needed. Any household sandpaper of the appropriate grain size will do. In general, you need to sand under the block if you are running more than 20-30 km or on ice.

· Swix T-89 razor scraper, used for removing lint - not needed by an amateur.

· Metal cycle. It is unlikely that you will cycle yourself - the process requires skill, and, most importantly, a ski machine in which the ski is rigidly attached. Modern skis are produced with an applied structure, which should not be sanded. A cycle is only needed to remove burnt plastic. And it’s as easy as shelling pears to ruin a ski when scraping - your hand trembles and there’s a wave or a scratch. Amateurs don't need it.

· Knurling is used to apply a structure to a sliding surface. Amateurs don't need it. The universal structure applied at the factory is sufficient.

· A copper brush is needed to remove frosty paraffins. If you are willing to put up with a slight deterioration in gliding by using warmer paraffin, then you don’t need it. If you apply hard frosty paraffin, you will have to take it. Or use a frost gel or accelerator that is applied in a very thin layer and does not require the use of a stiff brush.

· The wash is used to remove the holding ointment under the block. Also suitable for washing off sliding paraffin if it is not possible to use hot ski cleaning. Preferably. This is generally a useful thing in everyday life - it just didn’t have to be cleaned.

· Rubbing (cork) is used to level out holding ointments. Plastic is better for ointments. Cork can be used to apply accelerators. Definitely needed.

Additional ski accessories

Another desirable item is a ski bag. Firstly, there will be a place to store your skis, and, most importantly, you will not get dirty with the holding ointment while you get to the ski track. It is very difficult to remove it from clothes without a solvent or remover. Good domestic cases cost from 200 rubles. Take a case for 2-3 pairs. It holds both skis and poles.

It's a good idea to take Velcro ski ties. There is less risk that the sliding surface of the ski will be damaged during transportation by poles or bindings of another pair. If you walk close to the ski track, then you can carry your skis without a cover. Skis that are tied together are more difficult to get dirty on. The skis are tied in such a way that the soft lining of the bundle is between the sliding surfaces of the skis; they should not touch.

Rags. To treat your skis you will need old cotton rags. They wipe the sole of the iron dry after applying paraffins, clean scrapers and other tools, remove the holding ointment using a remover, brush away the remaining paraffin after passing through the scraper and brushes, and so on. At worst, you can even polish your ski after applying paraffins with a rag without pressing hard.

How to store skis

Since most ski models, especially mass-produced ones, use wood, you should not store skis near heat sources or on a sunny balcony. My friend put a cover with skis on the glassed-in balcony on the sunny side for the summer. And one pair of skis sucked; it was good that they were inexpensive. Lubricants should also not be stored near heat sources or in the sun.

Simplified ski lubrication technologies

You can read about the intricacies of applying hot lubricants (using a ski iron) in Steve Paulin’s article “Use the iron correctly” from LS No.... In particular, he does not recommend using household irons for this purpose - you can easily burn the plastic of expensive skis. But you can apply slip lubricants without an iron.

You can try this method (I experimented): take a metal ladle with a lid, say, a liter one. It should not be enameled, but a purely metal ladle with a smooth, even bottom, preferably aluminum - it has high thermal conductivity. Boil water, pour 2/3 of the ladle, no more, so as not to accidentally scald yourself. Cover the ladle with a lid to avoid getting burned by the steam. This combination will replace the iron when using soft paraffins during the initial treatment of skis or when lubricating with heat and a slight minus. As a rule, such paraffins have a melting point significantly lower than 100 degrees Celsius. Paraffin must first be rubbed in a thick layer onto the sliding surface, and the ski must lie horizontally, with the sliding surface facing up, for example, on two stools.

Boiling water and a ladle that conducts heat well are enough to melt low-melting paraffin. Of course, you can’t put frosty paraffin like that, but there will be a 100% guarantee against burning the base. Change the water as it cools. Make several slow passes from the tip to the end of the ski. But keep in mind that this method has a significant drawback - you can accidentally turn the ladle over and get scalded. Therefore, for regular use, it is better to purchase a ski iron.

Another way. Paraffin can be applied by vigorous rubbing. First of all, clean your ski. If there is a clear layer of old wax on the ski, then lightly go through it with a plastic scraper and/or a nylon brush. Rub a clean ski with a very thin continuous layer of paraffin (it is convenient to control this by looking at the reflection of the ski from the window). It doesn’t even have to be a completely continuous layer. Then take the cork rub and rub it intensively in both directions for 1-2 minutes. The heat generated is enough to partially fuse the paraffin into the base. Then brush lightly from the tip to the tail of the ski. The time required is minimal. There is practically no dirt, no machine required. On regular snow it will last at least 10 km.

There is such a thing - thermal rubbing from the TOKO company - this is a piece of dense felt with a fine structure, glued to sponge rubber. This combination supposedly generates enough heat to cold apply the accelerators. Simulated with a thick synthetic felt insole wrapped around a small flat piece of wood. It can also be used as an alternative to cork rubbing when applying paraffins using the cold method.

What ski waxes to buy for ski preparation

Depending on your level of training and the thickness of your wallet, there are three sets of lube that are sufficient for riding.

Minimum.

Solid holding ointment

This set will be enough for you to comfortably walk through the forest on plastic skis without recoil or slipping. It is not at all necessary to buy paraffins, irons, brushes and other tools. It is enough to buy a set of holding ointments (for example, VISTI or SVIKS) and lubricate the skis only under the block, rubbing them with a cork so that there is no kickback. For walking, believe me, this is quite enough; the skis will glide even without paraffin.

Here is what is included in the required minimum kit:

3 - 4 jars (briquettes) holding ointment, covering the temperature range from 0 to -15 degrees (adjust depending on the region), and one cork or synthetic rubbing.

Synthetic cork

Ointments and rubbing will cost you 100 - 200 rubles. If money allows, buy an additional plastic scraper (about 90 rubles) and a bottle of branded cleaner (about 300 rubles). However, the scraper and its substitutes were written above. You can do without a wash. Either without it at all, that is, removing the old ointment with a scraper, or replacing it with a bottle of kerosene or gasoline. (You can clean your skis, which, in general, is completely optional, with a piece of cotton wool soaked in gasoline. And the main “everyday” advantage of the wash is the absence of a strong odor.)

Just please keep in mind that with such a lubricant (solid ointments) you should not go out on the ski slopes at above-zero temperatures, because at above-zero temperatures you will need liquid holding ointments (klisters).

Sufficient.

Liquid holding ointment

This kit will allow you to competently and fully care for your skis. This set is enough not only for comfortable riding through the forest in any weather, but also for participation in most mass ski races such as “Russian Ski Track”. It includes the same as the minimum kit, plus a set of inexpensive paraffins, an iron, a brush, a can of remover, a plastic scraper, and a set of inexpensive liquid ointments. Such a kit will cost a more significant amount - from 3,000 rubles. It is highly advisable to add a special ski machine to this kit - it will allow you not only to prepare your skis very well, but also to enjoy this process. (If you wish, you can make the machine yourself from scraps of wood, scraps of a tourist rug or something similar, and several pieces of iron and screws for securing the skis).

Advanced.

This kit may be needed by a fairly advanced and trained skier, so in many ways the following information may already be known to him from previous publications in L.S., from a coach or from some other sources. However, we provide this list as well. To all of the above you can add a set of holding ointments with fluorine content(solid and liquid), as well as paraffins with fluorine content(this lubricant is especially effective in conditions of high humidity). You can also buy antistatic paraffins (needed to remove static tension from the sliding surface of skis), accelerators (powdered and tablet-form pure fluorocarbons), knurls (for applying a weather-appropriate structure to the sliding surface), sprays and emulsions. In addition, keep in mind that advanced skiers try to have lubricants from different companies in their arsenal, since ointments from often completely different manufacturers work well in different weather conditions. In general, this set is already for an advanced skier, and its cost increases many times over compared to the cost of the first two sets combined.